How donkeys simplify life in Lamu’s Swahili setting

Lamu. “If you don’t have a donkey here, you become the donkey.”

This is what residents of the coastal Lamu old town in Kenya say, stressing the importance of the domestic animal which is commonly used to carry goods and even people.

That means, without a donkey, you will have to carry your luggage—like a donkey.

Buildings are made of coral stones and mangrove timber. Streets are narrow for vehicles to pass. Donkeys are actually the major means of transportation across the town.

Lamu is the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa, retaining its traditional functions, according to the United Nations Education, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco) which lists the town as its heritage site.

Travelling to neighbouring towns like Shela — a small town on the south which is similar to Lamu — one should use a boat but within the town, it’s mostly walking or riding a donkey. “There is only one Land Rover for the county commissioner and he just drives it from home to office and back because there is only one road,” says Mr Nassir Omar, a tour guide. “There is also one tractor for garbage collection and some motorcycles for the power company officials who also use them when they are going out of the town,” he adds.

As it is the case with other transportation models, donkeys have their “refuelling stations” called “donkey centres”, which basically offer water for the animal. Lamu and Shela towns are so quiet that only Muslim prayer calls during prayer time and donkey cries could be heard.

At Shela, 50 per cent of the old buildings are said to be owned by foreigners and the others by the locals. However, the Swahili culture is retained. Peponi Hotel also has Swahili foods and drinks in its menu. Almost all people know each other. Even when strangers try to dress in Lamu style—traditional kikoi and walking bare feet – the locals will easily notice them. “Karibuni Lamuni,” they would say, meaning “Welcome to Lamu” in their Kiswahili. Almost every house has a verandah where anyone or group can sit in there and chat.

The narrow streets which are dangerous in cities like Dar are safe here and one can walk alone even at midnight, according to Mr Omar.

When anyone falls sick, they just walk to the health facility and if it’s so serious that the patient cannot walk, a donkey will transport the patient.

“By the way we know each other including where we live. So, sometimes they can just let me know and I will run fast to attend the patient at home, especially expectant mothers,” says May Makau, a nurse at Shela Dispensary. Traditional midwives play an important role in ensuring women are assisted to deliver.

We did not find a staff member in the dispensary but the guide got in the premises to show visitors around the facility.

“Life is great in Lamu. There are no thieves but once you enter, make sure the gate is closed because donkeys may get in and eat some flowers,” he says.

Lamu town has a population of about 14,000 people but the whole archipelago has between 20,000 and 30,000 residents, according to Mr Omar. Shela town has between 2,000 and 3,000 people, he says.

The main economic activities include fishing, transportation through water, trading and nowadays tourism which is picking up at a faster pace. People like Aswif Omar have established a transportation company which he says pays him a lot.

The 29-year-old, who is famously known as “Mr I’ll Be Back,” is full of wise quotes as he speaks. He says life is better with the booming tourism. He got the name back in the school days. When he left school and his teacher asked where he’s going, he would reply “I’ll be back.”

When the teacher missed him in class he would ask “where is I’ll be back?”