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Meet Asya Khamsin, US-based 'mother' of Tanzanian fashion



What you need to know:

  • Having established her legacy in the Tanzanian fashion industry, Asya moved to the US 17 years ago, where she has remarkably continued to achieve greater heights in the fashion world, consistently showcasing Tanzanian designs and expanding their influence on the global stage

Asya Idarous Khamsin is a legendary figure in Tanzania's fashion industry.

With five decades of experience and leadership, she has been instrumental in shaping the industry and inspiring a new generation of talented designers.

In 2018, Asya Khamsin made headlines in the United States when her luggage, containing some of her designs, was stolen from Ronald Reagan National Airport.

The incident involved Sam Brinton, a former Biden administration official.

With the help of her attorneys, Peter Hansen and Ben Akech from Washington, she was able to resolve the case without going to trial.

Though she relocated to Houston, Texas, in the US after getting married 17 years ago, Asya’s passion for Tanzania’s fashion remains unwavering.

She continues to showcase her designs at fashion shows across the US, collaborating not only with Tanzanians but also with fellow African nationals, including Kenyans, South Africans, Nigerians, and Ugandans.

“I get to show them designs that I craft that are influenced by my country, Tanzania,” she says.

She notes that Tanzanian designs, such as the distinctive Maasai jewellery and the unique patterns and motifs traditionally used by the Maasai people, are highly admired in the West.

Asya is proud of the strides the fashion industry in Tanzania has made.

She highlights that Tanzanian celebrities are increasingly turning to local designers for their fashion needs. Notably, Martin Kadinda has gained recognition for dressing and advising top celebrities in Tanzania, further showcasing the growing influence of local talent in the fashion industry.

Some designers have also carved out lucrative niches in wedding planning—a development that would have been unthinkable in the past.

The industry has advanced significantly, culminating in the unification of designers through the establishment of the Fashion Association of Tanzania, where Asya serves as Vice Chairwoman.

In 2008, Mustafa Hassanali started the popular Swahili Fashion Week, the largest annual fashion event that also features an award show for which Asya won the lifetime achievement award.

The proliferation of fashion festivals and platforms has provided emerging designers with numerous opportunities to make their mark.

These new avenues are a testament to the foundation laid by Asya, whose pioneering work has paved the way for the young designers thriving in the industry today.

Asya’s prominence was solidified by her iconic fashion shows ‘Lady in Red’ and ‘Kanga za Kale,’ for which she won multiple awards.

She started doing international fashion shows by introducing the Tanzanian Khanga on the runway in America and Europe during the diaspora fashion shows.

As her fame grew, so did her role as a mentor, guiding and supporting emerging designers in their own fashion pursuits.

Most are now notable names like Ally Remtulah, Martin Kadinda, and Khadija Mwanamboka.

She helped the Tanzanian designer Jocktan Cosmas Malule, better known as 'Makeke', have his first showcase in her ‘Lady in Red’ show, and she is proud to see Makeke has transitioned to an international designer showcasing in Switzerland and France on a bigger platform.

“I am the mother of fashion in Tanzania; the reason they call me that is because I have raised all these successful designers that you see today,” she mentions.

Asya’s move to the US was not without hesitancy; having established herself in Tanzania, she was sceptical about relocating, but since her husband’s primary residence was the United States, she was obliged to make the move.

To her surprise, she already had many fans, and her work was known in the US, so the transition was smooth. She was able to continue working in the industry she loves.

Five years ago she had to relinquish her ‘Red in Red’ fashion show, and it went under new management.

She is happy to see that it continues to flourish despite her absence.

“It’s now under Hugo Domingo, and it has become even better than before,” Asya remarks.

Despite relocating thousands of miles away from home, young aspiring fashion designers are always contacting her for advice and seeking her knowledge.

She explains that her WhatsApp is full of texts from young models and designers, and she tirelessly helps them.

“I always tell them to never give up and to not pay attention to naysayers, I advise them to put God first and keep working,” Asya says.

She notes that she is never afraid to teach the upcoming designers or share what she knows, she beams with pride when she sees those she has taught doing well.

Her wish is to see them doing even better than her.

That is the selflessness that has made Asya beloved and adored by her peers.

She has been able to network and prosper in the US just like in Tanzania because she is genuinely in love with the fashion industry and even after 50 years of working in the industry, she still wants to see its growth and she knows the future belongs to the youth.

She has all the intentions to make sure she impacts them with as much knowledge as possible.

With all the success and achievements, Asya attributes it to her husband’s support.

He has been there for her in her fashion shows and he is always there, even when she receives the bouquet after she completes showcasing her work.

This, she shares, encourages her to work harder towards her dreams.

She urges young people to work harder and seek self-employment in a field of their passion.

She says young people should not be afraid to start in a modest job as long as they do it in a way that they will stand out.

“Most young people give up easily when they get a job that doesn’t pay that well,” she says.

She advises young people to start working even if it’s at a lower level and they can work their way up.

“No one starts at the top, not even me,” said Asya.

She reminisces about her earlier days, when she started fashion.

She was not paid at all, and sometimes she had to use her own money to pay the models organise everything herself and incur costs for all the expenses.

But that helped her establish her name.

She recalls how patience, as a virtue, helped her.

“If one seeks success in life, patience is the secret to achieving one’s goal,” she adds.

She has been involved in philanthropy, working with NGOs like Volunteers In Development (VID) on the betterment of the lives of disenfranchised children and widows in improving their access to education and health.

They are now on the verge of opening a community centre in Dar es Salaam where children will have a playground and a school.

She is also a member of the Kalamu Foundation, which helps build schools in rural areas.

“I ask people who have been blessed to give back to the less fortunate,” Asya said.

The multi-award-winning fashion designer has been nominated for the upcoming Diaspora Awards organised by the Diaspora Council of Tanzanians in America (DICOTA) under the cultural ambassador category.

“These awards will motivate Tanzanians in the diaspora on a humanitarian level to do more to give back to the communities both here in the US and back home in Tanzania, so I would like to congratulate DICOTA for organising these awards,” Asya concluded.