Recalling the Lake Chala adventure and its mythical legendary ‘lady’

It was in the early 1990s when, save for a bottle of Konyagi - the local gin now popularly known as ‘Bombadier’ - I could have caused a major diplomatic scandal.

This incident had long been forgotten by my ‘decaying’ brain until earlier this week when finding myself in Rombo, on the eastern slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro, I decided to visit Lake Chala, straddling the Tanzania/Kenya border. I wanted to test my endurance, by descending and climbing its forbidding 170 metres crater rim following recuperation from my recent scary ‘breathing complications.’

You see: way back then, I used to organise several special Mount Kilimanjaro climbing expeditions, one of which was the Annual Diplomatic Climb. This climb attracted several high-level diplomats accredited to Tanzania and other countries where we had our embassies. The catalyst for the success of this climb was none other than the veteran mountain climber, Major General (rtd) and Diplomat, Ambassador Mirisho Sarakikya.

On this occasion, we had brought together about 30 diplomats, 12 of whom were full High Commissioners or Ambassadors of their countries to Bongoland, as well as in a few other African and European countries.

During the two-day acclimatization phase at the Marangu base we decided - among other things - to organise an excursion for the group to the nearby Lake Chala.

After a hearty breakfast at the historic Marangu Hotel, we boarded our tour vehicles for the trip to Lake Chala via Rombo.

We leisurely cruised down the lush green tropical forests and banana plantations until we reached the flat, open semi-arid land leading to the lake and onwards to Taveta in neighbouring Kenya.

After a lengthy drive on this land, we could not find the lake. We decided to stop at one village and ask for directions. What? We were in Kenya and the local chief was on the verge of calling what they call the ‘Administration Police’ to detain us when I beseeched him and offered him the Konyagi ‘Bombadier.’

He immediately mellowed and gave us directions back to our Bongoland side of Lake Chala. Naturally, I did not inform the Excellencies on what had just transpired.

Lake Chala: No wonder we had missed it, as the lake cannot be easily seen by a passerby because it is completely hidden from view. The turquoise blue-green lake waters attracted some of us to descend into the crater and feel them. They were bone-chilling cold.

What we did not know was that we were in for an unforgettable arduous climb back to the crater rim. And this is what I was going to do this time. Do not ask me what happened this time round.

Back to Lake Chala: The 4.2 square kms lake was formed about 250,000 years ago. It lies 55kms from Rombo District. The lake - which is 98 metres deep - depends on subsurface water from the montane forest zone of Mount Kilimanjaro. Actually, it takes three months for the groundwater to reach the lake!

On enquiring, I was informed it is almost a no-swim lake for locals. This is on account of a myth popular in the area.

A long time ago in that land, legend has it, there lived two clans. One day a mysterious woman appeared asking for a place to sleep.

The first clan she approached was in the middle of celebrating a bumper harvest and was having its annual sorghum beer drinking festival. So the clan said to her: “Go away you dirty miserable hag.”

Sad and disappointed, the woman went to the second clan of the Mnene who warmly welcomed her, offered her delicious food and a warm place to sleep.

Next day, she woke up happy - but warned the Mnene clan of the curse and calamity that would befall the other clan that had chased her away. She then left. Indeed, that same night, the ground at the cursed clan began to shake, and fear gripped the villagers. The tremors got stronger; houses collapsed; animals began to run helter-skelter; and dogs howled with fear.

Suddenly, there was a loud bang. A huge plume of black smoke shot up and the ground began to sink. The villagers cried out for help - to no avail. The ground sank and became an enormous crater. Water welled up and the villagers disappeared. That is what is now the Lake Chala.

It is said that, at night one can still hear drumbeats and cries for help from the villagers who sank. And the whirlpools that form on the lake during the day are their unsettled spirits. Descendants are warned never to swim in the lake. And whenever they do, they are told, they will drown.

Following this experience I plan to begin organising special ‘Lake Chala Crater Descend and Climb Tours’ to this mythical lake targeting those who wish to test their stamina.

In due course, I may rival the Mount Kilimanjaro Climbing Tours. I think I can; I will - and must do so, God help me!

The author is a veteran journalist and communications expert based in Arusha.