MOTORING: Essential car checks to do every day
Car checking is rather like taking the pill - it prevents unwanted problems, and although it can be done at any time within regular intervals, if you set a regular time for it, you are less likely to forget. So resolve not only to check your car, but also to make a “habit” of it. Set aside 15 minutes each week and do this:
Oil: Check the oil level on the dipstick. If your car uses a lot of oil, keep the oil topped up to the high mark. If it “uses” little or no oil between services, the level should be kept just above the low mark, to give slight economy and performance advantages. Check that the oil filler cap is secure and there are no leaks around the oil filter and engine joints.
Undo the radiator cap when the engine is cool. The water should reach the base of the cap. Do not always rely on the level in the expansion tank, though it will give you a quick visual reference at more frequent intervals.
If the water is slightly murky, make a note to have the radiator flushed at the next service. If it is thick with muddy rust, get it flushed next time you refuel. The job is simple and takes just a few minutes.
Brakes: Check the brake fluid level. The reservoir should be absolutely full. Although the brakes will work perfectly well if it is less than full, it will be easier to spot any fluid loss if the level is always measured from the brim. Also, if the reservoir is always full, air is less likely to get into the system.
If ever you need to top up the brake fluid, even slightly, turn on a red light in your head. Make very careful and thorough follow-up checks of the brake system to establish why the level has gone down.
Battery: The fluid (electrolyte) level in each cell should cover the vertical plates inside. The caps should be clean and their breather holes should be clear. If the fluid needs topping up use distilled water only. Never add ordinary tap water - even if it is sparkling clean, it will contain chemicals harmful to your battery - and never add acid.
The battery terminals should be tight and clean, with no “fur” on them. Make sure the battery brackets are secure but do not over tighten them - this distorts the battery casing and can cause cracks and leaks.
Distributor: If your car does have a distributor, unclip the cap and check the metal contacts inside - the metal should ideally be shiny and not too worn (if they are corroded they can be polished clean with emery paper). The cap itself should fit securely, be clean, dry and have no cracks or chips. Check that the points are not dirty or pitted.
Fanbelt: Check the tension and condition. There should be about 2 cm of play in the belt, mid-way between the pulleys. If it is tighter than that, it could damage the alternator and pulley bearings, and if it is looser, it could slip and break or fail to operate the alternator and water pump properly. A screeching noise just after you start the engine and rev up invariably denotes a loose belt.
Tyres: Look for cuts and bulges on the sidewalls, not forgetting the inside edge. If you find any cuts or bulges, the tyre should be replaced. Look for signs of unusual tread wear. One side wearing out faster than the other or a feathering effect on the trend require urgent remedial action.
Exhaust: With the engine at fast idle, block the end of the exhaust tailpipe with the palm of your hand or the sole of your shoe. If it continues to run, your exhaust has a leak that will become rapidly worse unless it is repaired.
Spotting weaknesses before they get serious really will save you time and money - and might also save your life.
